Congreso Internacional de mujeres gastronomía y medio rural
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Najat Kanaache rolls out Andalusian cuisine's palette of colours

Carla Vidal

 

Greens, reds, yellows, browns, oranges ... a riot of colours by Moroccan-Spanish Najat Kanaache to remind us that we are not so far from Africa. 

Najat Kanaache transformed the FéminAs stage into an embassy of Andalusian cookery, with colours, smells, tastes and sounds conveying us to the splendour of Al-Andalus. In a bid to reconcile two cultures which on occasion have not seen eye to eye, but which also have many aspects in common, Kanaache explained the need to reopen and retrieve bridges. “We mustn't forget the origins of the many things that Andalusian culture brought to Spanish gastronomy", said Najat, calling for "pride in one's own culture and the ability to share it". 

Almonds ("where would Galicia's Tarta de Santiago be without them?"), chickpeas ("so typical of those Madrid stews!"), or even "alfajor" filled biscuits ("even the word itself smacks of Al-Andalus") are examples of that cultural connection, that shared knowledge, and shared appreciation of the Moroccan contribution to Spain's gastronomic culture. 

Kanaache also confided a more insightful approach to all these products: “in my opinion, human values and the connection between cookery and the land are very important”. Respect for the producer and respect for the product, Najat believes, are also a way of paying homage "to those men and women who work in the fields and supply us from the sea". 

The chef homes in on one of the most typical aspects of the land and of nature: colour. “Colours are present in our surroundings and represent the joy of mother nature, which is what I like to convey to diners, and to do it in the most natural way possible, through the colours of the land". Colours which Najat puts into her recipes, using ingredients and techniques such as mousses, syrups, balsamics ... a natural Pantone for each flavour. 

Najat also referred to Zyriab, an Arabian poet, musician and gastronome who brought the entire ritual of the table to Andalusian gastronomy: hygiene, the attire of waiters, and cutlery. Thus the Nur chef demonstrated that Andalusian culture has made a contribution to gastronomy on all levels, and how the "awakening of the new Andalusian culture must also pay homage to all those who have shaped it".

 

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