Congreso Internacional de mujeres gastronomía y medio rural
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A chat with the "bad mothers"

David Salvador

 

Better working hours for a better work/life balance, and also so that women working in the world of gastronomy do not have to give up their profession just because they are mothers, "although this may affect the price. 

Elena Arzak, María Busta and Fina Puigdevall and Martina Puigvert have proven they are not "bad mothers".
 
Elena Arzak (Arzak***, San Sebastián), María Busta (Casa Eutimio, Colunga, Asturias) and Fina Puigdevall and Martina Puigvert (Les Cols**, Olot) shared the stage on Wednesday at FéminAs to state that being a professional and fighting for your dreams does not mean being a "bad mother". They were spurred on by journalist and mother Pamela Villagra, with a preliminary reflection: “When I go on a trip, people ask me what I do with my little girls. My husband, who also travels, never gets asked that. Is it possible to be a good professional and a good mother?” Arzak, Busta, Puigdevall and Puigvert took up the mike.

The Asturias stewmistress was first in: “It's possible, but we have to live with the social mantra that we might be - even if our children love us. We should not feel bad when we're not with our children, because sometimes we feel that way". A self-responsibility with a nod to the partners: “Fathers are increasingly involved. Women are branching out, and there's no turning back”.

Elena Arzak took the floor: "I haven't felt that I'm a bad mother. I've shared functions with my husband, and my children have never criticised me for not being with them”. An opinion shared by Martina, from the perspective of the daughter of a successful chef: “I've never considered her a bad mother. On the contrary, I see her as a businesswoman. The role of the woman at home - as in the case of the Arzak family - was extremely active and empowered. It is true, though, that when I left the bubble, I saw there's a long way to go”. Fina, her mother, nodded her agreement beside her.

Villagra went on: “OK, it's possible. Next: What's to be done now so that it doesn't happen again? “We have to normalise things. I've had three children, and the one who's spent most time with them has been my husband. For them to grow up seeing this as the norm is the best thing that could happen", explained Busta. Then it was time to discuss the work/life balance, the cornerstone and answer to many of the problems aired at the congress. According to Martina, “our new generations have to understand sustainability in the broad sense, including staff management".

This was a sensitive issue. The discussion featured four chefs, but from the perspective of the businesswomen they also are. Arzak was vehement: “Facilities should be offered (shorter working hours etc.) but a woman can't be depriving of having children because of her work. As a society we can't afford to do that. And so our businesses must help them”. Sour versus sweet: “But the company can't lose money either. We have to look around and find solutions. We're all responsible. Female employees or male employees look for solutions when they have to work out a balance". Fina saw some parallelisms: “The solution is understanding each other. We're a family business, and we all have to understand each other". Another sweetener: “But we have to realise that a work/life balance can eventually affect the price”.

They returned to the importance of understanding and relations on the specific issue of working hours: “They've improved and fewer hours are worked, but we must all know where we stand: If one day you have to work a little longer, some other day you leave early. We all have to row together", said Arzak. Busta added: “Hours are more respectful now. When I was a girl there were no breaks in service, and the kitchen operated continuously. And we set the eating times. We're educating the customer a little. All the changes are taking their time, but they're getting there”.

The four finished off with a final wish: “FéminAs not to be held because what people are asking for has become reality”. Elena Arzak ended on a personal note: “I hope there'll be a lot of “Martinas” in the future”. That would be the best possible news.

 

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